Wolfs Ears - Helix, Valhallas, BC | 5.8 - 6 pitches
After doing Nisleheim, we were a little tired but were eager for another climb. I mean, we’re already up here, right? So after a quiet night of rest in the Valhallas campground, we packed up our tent and bags, and head over to Wolf Ears.
We received some good approach beta from friends we met at camp. Certain sources recommend going up the shortest col to get to Wolfs Ears. Instead, we went up the gully right between the Muzzle (west of Wolfs Ears) and Wolfs Ears.
It was steep but a much shorter approach camp than going to the low point.
Wolfs Ears is an impressive view from the base. The first pitch was the scariest for both of us and is considered the “crux” at 5.8. The rock quality was poor (I ripped off a hand and a foot) and it turned from in-cut holds to scary runout slab (although there were a few bolts).
The remaining pitches were a nice breezy cruise with: P2 5.6, P3 5.7, P4 5.8, P5 5.3 & P6 5.5 (according to a sneaky guidebook we found online 🤫). Mountain Project lists the pitches as follows: P1 5.7, P2 5.6, P3 5.7, P4 5.7, P5 5.3 & P6 5.6.
Pitch 4 was our favorite as it was the only real climbing you do on the multi.
Other notes - each pitch has bolted anchors; P5 has a few variations (og - easy ramp scramble, Antihelix Right - 5.10, Antihelix Left - 5.11); P5 and P6 can be combined if you don’t mind hella rope drag.
From the last bolts, I highly recommend scrambling ~5 meters to the top to get some beautiful 360 views.
Nice views of Mulvey Lakes and some of the massive multi pitch climbs (20-30 pitches) on Mount Dag(?)
Back from the last bolt, you can rap twice (from the top of P6 and the top of P5) down to the 3rd class gully west of the summit. Careful rope management is key! Lots of places to get the rope caught.
There are two gullies down from the top. The first one looked a bit spookier to us so we scrambled over one little ridge and went down the sandy steep gully.
Then made our way back to camp!
