Electric Lundy Land, Easter Sierra, CA | 5.10a - ~6 pitches
Met up with Alex and Abby to get in a final alpine day before the winter! We drove down to Lundy Canyon, just north of Mono Lake.
We were lucky to have a warm and windless day.
The climb starts right at the bottom of a gully after a short talus approach.
P0 is an easy 5.6 with two bolts. Mostly a scramble with a couple of actual climbing moves.
P1 is a 5.8. Belay from a nice ledge and climb up to a very cozy ledge. Not a whole lot of room to share.
P2 is the super fun 5.10a pitch. This one starts with some tricky slab moves and goes into some super fun gym style climbing moves.
P3 is a long 5.8 pitch. I found this one to be trickier than the 10a pitch, but I think I just don’t have my lead head on super right. It is slabby and goes around a corner.
P4 is a choss pile and is not very fun!
P5 and P6 (5.6 ish) blended together - there are bolts everywhere, but essentially you climb the arete! STAY on the right side. A group member added spice to our day by climbing on the left side and unintentionally pulling a washing machine sized block off the wall. We watched it tumble down and explode near where we left our bags. Everyone is safe, but what a scare!
Guide resources recommend an 80m rope for the rap. It is still possible to safely descend using a 70m, however, we needed to down climb a small section (down belayed). One other tip - on the choss pile section, Alex and Abby rappeled straight down and walked up climbers right to the rap rings. This was sketchy due to rapping right over loose rocks. Justin and I rappeled the same way we climbed up. This was sketchy because it’s a very traversy rappel over chossy rocks. Can’t win! Do what’s best for you.
